Paris - COTTWEILER and Gabriela Hearst were today announced the winners of the menswear and womenswear 2016/2017 International Woolmark Prize, presented at a special event at the iconic Palais de Tokyo, Paris. The return of the International Woolmark Prize to Paris salutes the original awards, initiated by the International Wool Secretariat in 1953. This year, the menswear and womenswear awards have been held together for the first time at one prestigious event.
巴黎 - 2016/17国际羊毛标志大奖全球总决赛今日在巴黎的地标性建筑Palais de Tokyo正式举行， COTTWEILER和Gabriela Hearst分别荣获男装组和女装组决赛的冠军。国际羊毛标志大奖由The Woolmark Company[前身为国际羊毛秘书处(International Wool Secretariat)]于1953年创办，并于1954年在巴黎举行第一届大赛，此次大奖赛回归巴黎正是对这段历史的致敬。今年也是国际羊毛标志大奖男女装组冠军首次于一个舞台同时宣布。
COTTWEILER和Gabriela Hearst
The award was judged by a highly esteemed panel, including menswear judges: Imran Amed, Founder and CEO, Business of Fashion; Rami Atallah, Co-founder and CEO, ssense.com
该奖项由业内权威评审团评选决出，男装组决赛评审团包括：《时装商业评论》创始人兼首席执行官Imran Amed、 SSENSE.com（http://ssense.com）网站联合创始人兼首席执行官Rami Atallah、DAZED传媒首席执行官兼联合创始人Jefferson Hack、LECLAIREUR拓展总监及男装买手Michael Hadida、巴黎版《Vogue》副主编兼《Vogue Hommes》主编Olivier Lalanne、Owenscorp合伙人Michèle Lamy、Harvey Nichols资深男装买手Benn McGregor、Hudson’s Bay Company副总裁兼男装时尚总监Nelson Mui、Hood By Air创意总监Shayne Oliver、The Woolmark Company全球战略顾问Fabrizio Servente、日本Isetan Mitsukoshi男装和运动装部总经理Takehiko Suzuki和《W》杂志主编Stefano Tonchi。
The womenswear jury panel included: Christiane Arp, Editor in Chief, Vogue Germany; Anita Barr, Group Fashion Buying Director, Harvey Nichols; Victoria Beckham OBE, Fashion Designer; Damian Burke, General Manager Womenswear, David Jones; Lou Doillon, Singer-Songwriter / Actress; Miroslava Duma, CEO and founder, Fashion Tech Labs and Buro 24/7; Julie Gilhart, Fashion Consultant; Joanna Gunn, Chief Brand Officer, Lane Crawford; Tiffany Hsu, Buying Manager Ready-to-Wear, mytheresa.com（http://mytheresa.com）; Bouchra Jarrar, Creative Director, Lanvin; Suzanne Koller, Contributing Editor, Vogue Paris; Dame Natalie Massenet DBE, Chair of British Fashion Council; Stuart McCullough, Managing Director, The Woolmark Company; Virginie Mouzat, Fashion and Lifestyle Editor in Chief, Vanity Fair; Suzanne Timmins, Senior Vice President and Fashion Director, Hudson's Bay Company; Lena Jabbour Matta, Co-Founder and Co-CEO, Boutique 1 Group; and Elizabeth Von Guttman, Founder, System Magazine.
女装组决赛评审团包括：德国版《Vogue》主编Christiane Arp、Harvey Nichols集团时装买手总监Anita Barr、时装设计师Victoria Beckham OBE、David Jones女装部总经理Damian Burke、创作歌手兼演员Lou Doillon、Fashion Tech Labs和Buro 24/7首席执行官兼创始人Miroslava Duma、时尚顾问Julie Gilhart、Lane Crawford首席品牌官Joanna Gunn、mytheresa.com（http://mytheresa.com）成衣部买手总监Tiffany Hsu、Lanvin创意总监Bouchra Jarrar、巴黎版《Vogue》特约编辑Suzanne Koller、英国时装协会（British Fashion Council）主席Dame Natalie Massenet DBE、The Woolmark Company董事总经理Stuart McCullough、《名利场》杂志时装和生活方式主编Virginie Mouzat、Hudson’s Bay Company资深副总裁兼时尚总监Suzanne Timmins、Boutique 1集团联合创始人及联合首席执行官Lena Jabbour Matta和《System Magazine》创始人Elizabeth Von Guttman。
“COTTWEILER is working with wool in a highly original way that mixes sports, tailoring, streetwear and fashion, and I think that represents a new dimension in menswear,”said Dazed Media CEO and Co-Founder Jefferson Hack after the announcement.
“COTTWEILER以原创方式全新演绎美丽诺羊毛，融合运动休闲、高端定制、街头潮流等多种风格，开创了男装新趋势和新领域。”DAZED传媒首席执行官兼联合创始人Jefferson Hack在大奖公布后表示。
Representing the British Isles, COTTWEILER’s winning International Woolmark Prize collection comprises sheer Merino wool base-layers, windproof mid-layers and quilted waterproof outerwear, with wool-blend fabrics ranging from 18.5 microns through to 19.5 microns, and recycled wool scraps used for insulation. The resultant collection brings COTTWEILER’s brand of fetish-infused cult and tribe codes into the world of wool, with utilitarian detailing – padded hoods, detachable cargo pockets, running caps, and elasticised hems and cuffs, for example – at its core.
COTTWEILER来自不列颠群岛赛区，其获奖系列作品面料甄选美丽诺羊毛面料来制作内里、防风中层和防水外层，羊毛混纺面料选用直径在18.5微米至19.5微米的羊毛纤维、并将废弃的羊毛材料制成隔热层。COTTWEILER的该系列不但为羊毛时装注入了部落元素和狂热色彩，并拥有丰富实用的细节设计：棉帽衫、可拆卸口袋、跑步帽、弹性衣边和袖口等等。
“Winning the International Woolmark Prize gives us the opportunity to share what we do with a much bigger, global audience,” said COTTWEILER after the win. “But for us, the great part of this was the opportunity to work with a different material - Merino wool - because we’re always interested in experimenting with technology and development.”
“赢得国际羊毛标志大奖使我们有机会与全球观众分享我们的作品。”COTTWEILER获奖后表示，“但最让我们兴奋的还是可以使用美丽诺羊毛这种与众不同的面料来进行创作，我们始终热衷于技术创新和不断突破。”
“COTTWEILER doesn’t want to show off and are very relaxed and confident in themselves and what they show,” said Hood by Air Creative Director Shayne Oliver.” They know where to go with this funding and it will give them the push to get to the level they deserve to be at.”
“COTTWEILER 对于自己的作品非常自信但不自负。”Hood By Air创意总监Shayne Oliver说，“他们明白该如何利用这笔奖金进一步提升品牌地位，这份荣誉是他们应得的。”
Representing the USA, Gabriela Hearst was praised for her technical innovation and quality craftsmanship.
Gabriela Hearst代表美国赛区，其技术创新和非凡的工艺广受赞誉。
"The International Woolmark Prize gives a huge opportunity to young designers globally," explains Victoria Beckham. "It shows how much you can do with wool as a designer.
“国际羊毛标志大奖赋予全球各地的新锐设计师前所未有的机遇。”Victoria Beckham表示，“它为设计师提供了尽情演绎羊毛的绝佳舞台。”
"I was very much in support of Gabriela. For me, she is the worthy winner. I love what she does and she's clearly very talented. I like her eye, she has great product and she's a strong woman. I have a huge amount of respect for her. I'm proud and honoured to get involved in this and help make this possible for her."
“我一直非常喜爱Gabriela。我认为她获得奖项当之无愧。她非常有才华，作品也非常精彩。我喜欢她的眼睛、她的作品以及她坚强的个性。我非常尊重她，也非常荣幸能够参与大奖的评定，为她投上自己的一票。”
British Fashion Council Chair Dame Natalie Massenet DBE echoes this sentiment, saying: “We picked Gabriela because we thought she struck a chord on every level: a passion for wool, its history, and the varied uses of wool,” said “I learned a lot hearing her talking about the processes and the fact wool doesn’t wrinkle. She did a very good job of showing high-low, from evening gowns through to trench coats and pant suits and we feel that she will have an enormous future and will be great spokesperson for wool.”
英国时装协会（British Fashion Council）主席Dame Natalie Massenet DBE也同意Victoria Beckham的观点：“我们选择Gabriela满足了所有的条件：热爱羊毛、并用多样的方式使用羊毛。”她表示，“我从她的经历和羊毛的垂坠性中获益匪浅。从晚礼服到风衣和长裤西服，她完美地展现了各个场合的时装。我们看到了她未来的无限潜力，并相信她将是羊毛最佳的代言人。”
Born in Uruguay, the New York-based designer grew up on a sheep farm and believes in the traditional values of quality. Hearst’s winning International Woolmark Prize collection presents sleek silhouettes with updates on trench coats, pleats and an evening dress teamed with the more utilitarian baseball jacket with adjoining scarf, one-piece long johns, reversible puffer vest and cycling trousers. Using ultrafine 14.5 micron Merino wool for luxurious knitwear, though to 21.5 micron wool to create a wool-velvet fabrication, Hearst’s clean cuts and precision offers a collection set to stand the test of time.
这位纽约设计师在乌拉圭的绵羊牧场长大，坚持选择具备卓越品质的面料。其获奖系列包含新颖的茧型大衣、打褶服、晚礼服，搭配实用的棒球服和围巾，连体裤，内外两穿式背心和紧身运动裤，时尚大气。奢华针织品甄选超细的14.5微米美丽诺羊毛，21.5微米美丽诺羊毛则使羊毛呈献羽绒般的轻盈质感，利落精确的裁剪打造了永不过时的时尚经典。
“From a personal perspective I wish my grandfather and father were here,” said Gabriela Hearst after the win. “As a designer it’s a huge honour to be recognised and I cannot wait to promote more Merino wool in the world as I believe it is the yarn of future.”
“我非常希望我的祖父和父亲能够在现场目睹这一切。”Gabriela Hearst在获奖后表示：“国际羊毛标志大奖对于设计师而言是至高无上的殊荣。我已经迫不及待继续推崇美丽诺羊毛，我相信这是属于未来的纱线。”
"Paris has always been a key market for wool," explains The Woolmark Company Managing Director Stuart McCullough. "It is not only home to some of the world's most iconic luxury fashion houses, but also to some of the world most fashion-forward, savvy consumers. Bringing the International Woolmark Prize back to Paris shines the spotlight on fashion's next generation, and I congratulate both COTTWEILER and Gabriela Hearst on their well-deserved wins.”
“巴黎一直是羊毛产品的主要市场。”The Woolmark Company董事总经理Stuart McCullough表示，“巴黎不仅是全球最具代表性的众多顶级奢侈品所在地，同时也拥有最引领时尚的潮流、有品位的消费者。国际羊毛标志大奖的回归为时尚新生代提供了最炫目的展示舞台。在这里，我要向荣获国际羊毛标志大奖赛的COTTWEILER和Gabriela Hearst 表示祝贺。”
More than 75 designers from more than 60 countries were nominated for this year's award, with finalists representing six different regions across the world. The respective menswear and womenswear finalists were MÜNN and TOTON (Asia); Ex Infinitas and macgraw (Australia & New Zealand); COTTWEILER and Faustine Steinmetz (British Isles); TONSURE and Tim Labenda (Europe); Bounipun and Nachiket Barve (India, Pakistan and the Middle East); and Rochambeau and Gabriela Hearst (USA).
今年，来自60多个国家的超过75名设计师被提名进入国际羊毛标志大奖赛，入围决赛的选手分别来自六个不同的赛区。他们是为Münn和Toton（亚洲赛区）、Ex Infinitas和macgraw（澳大利亚和新西兰赛区）Cottweiler 和Faustian Steinmetz（不列颠群岛赛区）、Tonsure和Tim Labenda（欧洲赛区）、Bonipun和Nachiket Barve（印度、巴基斯坦及中东赛区），以及Rochambeau和Gabriela Hearst（美国赛区）。
Both COTTWEILER and Gabriela Hearst will each receive AU$100,000 to support the development of their business. They will also receive ongoing industry mentor support, Woolmark certification for their winning collection and the opportunity to be stocked in some of the world's most prestigious department stores and boutiques. These include Boutique 1, Boon the Shop, David Jones, Harvey Nichols, Hudson's Bay Company, Isetan, Lane Crawford, LECLAIREUR, mytheresa.com
COTTWEILER和Gabriela Hearst 将分别获得10万澳币奖金用以发展他们的事业。此外，他们还将获得后续的行业导师支持，得奖系列也将获得纯羊毛标志认证，并入驻全球最知名的时装精品店上架销售，这些零售商包括Boutique 1、Boon the Shop、David Jones、Harvey Nichols、Hudson’s Bay Company、Isetan、Lane Crawford、LECLAIREUR、mytheresa.com（http://mytheresa.com）、The Papilion和ssense.com（http://ssense.com）所有获奖系列将可以通过线上零售平台Ordre.com（http://Ordre.com）进行购买。
The Woolmark Company is delighted to have the support of official drinks partner Wine Australia, The Westin Paris - Vendôme, TONI&GUY, makeup by MAC and health and wellness brand Potion for the 2016/17 International Woolmark Prize global final.
The Woolmark Company特别鸣谢大赛官方酒类合作伙伴Wine Australia、 巴黎旺多姆威斯汀酒店、TONI&GUY、彩妆品牌M.A.C以及健康养生品牌Potion对2016/17国际羊毛标志大奖全球总决赛的支持。
About The Woolmark Company:
The Woolmark Company is the global authority on wool. Through our extensive network of relationships spanning the international textile and fashion industries, we highlight Australian wool’s position as the ultimate natural fibre and premier ingredient in luxury apparel.
The Woolmark logo is one of the world’s most recognised and respected brands, providing assurance of the highest quality, and representing pioneering excellence and innovation from farm through to finished product.
The Woolmark Company is a subsidiary of Australian Wool Innovation, a not-for-profit enterprise owned by more than 24,000 woolgrowers that invests in research, development and marketing along the worldwide supply chain for Australian wool.
For more information on the International Woolmark Prize go to www.woolmarkprize.com
关于The Woolmark Company：
The Woolmark Company是权威的毛纺织品认证机构，与全球各国的毛纺织和时装企业建立合作关系。我们将澳大利亚羊毛视为最天然的制衣纤维和高奢时装的首选面料。
纯羊毛标志（Woolmark）是全球最知名的纺织标志。它不仅是高品质的保证，也是从牧场到最终成衣的这一整个产业链中最佳品质和创新设计的代表。
The Woolmark Company是澳大利亚羊毛发展公司（Australian Wool Innovation）的全资子公司，是一个由2.4万名牧民所共同拥有的非盈利性组织，致力于为澳大利亚羊毛的全球供应提供研发和市场推广服务。
